The Waimano Tunnels and Ridge Trail -- a perfect adventure for kids

Checking out the hike with an eye for fun:

I recently tried out the Waimano Tunnels hike to see if it would be appropriate for my 9 year old daughter. I'll be back on Oahu with her this summer and I want to take her on some hikes. Based on my experience, this should be an excellent adventure for her.

The hike traces the path of an old irrigation system that consists of ditches, flumes and tunnels. It's cool that the tunnels are old and have historical significance. There are 10 or so tunnels along the trail -- each one, its own mini adventure. Be sure to bring a flash light though, as some of the tunnels are rather long and windy. They're tough to navigate without a light. Not too small and not too big either. Perfect for kids.

The hike is just over about 5 miles long -- round trip (for the tunnel section of the trail). This 'tunnel' part of the trail corresponds to the beginning section of the longer Waimano Ridge Trail. If you don't turn around at the right spot, you'll happily continue past the last tunnel, up the ridge trail. In fact, we did this during our hike. In the end, we hiked a good hour beyond the last tunnel up onto the ridge, heading toward the Ko'olau ridge line. The hike and views were lovely, but more than we planned for. In the end, our 5 mile hike turned into a solid 8 miler -- taking about 4.5 hours, with time for tunnel scrambling and lunch.

If you stick to the beginning section of the trail and take time to explore the tunnels, you can probably finish the hike in about 3 hours. The trail itself is mostly flat with a slight uphill ascent -- just what you'd expect from a trail alongside an irrigation duct. Just right for kids. We did have to hike for a while before we finally came to our first tunnel.

Where to turn around:

So how do you know when to turn around? It's easy, if you know the trick. Just look for these landmarks and follow these directions.

At some point along the trail (about 2 miles in; after a good number of tunnels), the trail crosses Waimano stream. Immediately after that you'll see an odd kind of trail sign with two arrows -- one points to the left, one points to the right. You can't miss it. It's right in front of you. (Sorry no picture).

Follow the path to the left. This will immediately take you through two more tunnels. These are the best tunnels on the hike. Continue on the path through both tunnels. After that second tunnel, you'll pop back out of the ditch and up onto the trail. If you continue on the trail up and to your right, you'll continue up the ridge trail toward the Ko'olau ridge line. If you follow the trail to your left, you'll end up circling back around and over the tunnel you just came through to a picnic area. Continue on the trail from the picnic area. This takes you back to that 'dual-arrow' junction you encountered just after crossing the stream. From here, just follow the trail back to the trail head. That's pretty much all there is to it.  

Of course, the tunnels are main attraction for this hike, but it's also loaded with goodies that should appeal to kids. In one spot, the trail is a little sketchy with a slight drop off. It's equipped with a rope to help the hiker feel safe as they scramble across a somewhat narrow, rocky ledge. Compared to many hikes on Oahu, this is pretty tame. However, it adds to the adventure for kids.

Also, the natural beauty is terrific. There are thickets of Hau trees that make excellent jungle gyms; and plenty of tropical plants some of which yield tasty fruit. We enjoyed a Liliko'i (Passion fruit) we found along the way, and the Java Plum were also abundant -- if you can handle the pucker.

Overall, this is a terrific day hike, especially for kids.

 How to get there from Honolulu:

Getting there from Honolulu is super easy. Just take H1 West toward Pearl City. (Note: once on H1 you can either stay on it the entire way or take the H201 short-cut and rejoin H1 later). Then take Exit 10 off H1 to Pearl City. Follow the exit, keeping to the right, and merge onto Moanalua Road. Follow Moanalua Road about 0.7 miles and take a right onto Waimano Home Road. Follow Waimano Home Road, up the hill about 2.5 miles until it ends (at a gate/restricted area). Park on the left side of the street. The trail head is just along the fence on the left side of the road.

Getting Started:

At the trail head there are two paths, the 'upper' path and the 'lower' path. The upper path (rightmost) follows along the fence for a while then joins up with the tunnel system. The lower-path heads down to the stream, then works its way along the stream until it joins up with the upper path later. On my trip, I stayed on the upper path.

Some pics:

Here are some pictures of the hike. 

The trail head.

The Java Plum were bursting with fruit.

A thicket of Hau branches. They scream to be climbed on.

A blossom from a Hau tree.

The entrance to a tunnel.

Hanging out under a fan palm.

The nasty thorns on the frond of a fan palm.

The entrance to another tunnel. Kind of scary looking. 

Cathie inside a tunnel. Her shoes reflecting my camera flash.  Sometimes the tunnels were damp, but this one was dry.

Cathie emerging from a tunnel.

A nice orchid we saw along the way.

A nice Lantana.

Me emerging from one of the tunnels.

The seeds/nuts of a palm tree.

A closeup of the funky seed/nut holders on a palm tree.

Looking up the Waimano Valley toward the Ko'olau Ridge. 

A Liliko'i (passion fruit) we picked up along the trail. It was tart, but good. 

Channel your inner goat -- hike the Kalalau Trail on Kauai's Na Pali Coast -- and find a profound kind of peace

Last week Cathie and I, along with our friends Lori and Tunji, spent 7 days hiking along the Na Pali Coast in Kauai. Starting from Ke'e Beach, we took two days to hike the 11 miles into the Kalalau Valley, camping over night in the Hanakoa Valley -- at the six mile mark. We then lounged 3 days in the Kalalau Valley, enjoying the beach and hiking into the valley. Finally, we turned for home and repeated our two day hike back out to Ke'e Beach.

I'm reluctant to write about the trip because I know I can't do it justice. I simply don't have the words to describe the beauty of the place or the feeling of peace we enjoyed while there. Even the pictures we collected, though beautiful, somehow fail to capture its essence. At Kalalau,  you feel a satisfying (and somehow reassuring) sense of insignificance, enveloped in the powerful, majestic and timeless arms of mother nature.

It was truly a fantastic trip, an adventurous hike rewarded with peace and awe and inspiring beauty.

Here are some photos. I hope you enjoy them.

-Steve

ps. And yes, there were plenty of goats in Kalalau. They clung to the cliffs as if by magic, kicking down the occasional rock.

The group is ready to go, at Ke'e Beach. From left to right: Tunji, Lori, Cathie, and me.

The hike from Ke'e Beach to Hanakapi'ai Beach is 2 miles. It's a lovely walk. Even in the winter it was somewhat busy.  Here the trail is wide (e.g., 3 feet) and well trod. 

The stream crossing at Hanakapi'ai. The stream looks innocuous enough. However, it can be dangerous. Four days before our trip, a woman lost her life, while trying to cross this stream during a flash flood.  

More warning signs at Hanakapi'ai.

Even more warning signs. It turns out these signs are probably warranted, as I learned a few days later at the beach at Kalalau. The beach and surf were lovely and enticing so I thought I'd take a swim. The surf was big, but not huge, maybe 7-10 feet. I dove into the heavy surf without giving it too much thought -- after all I'd body surfed at Sandy Beach (Oahu) many times. After being thrashed by the surf a few times, I realized its power and decided to head back in. Unfortunately, the current was strong, and though I swam hard (no fins!), the surf kept pulling me out. After taking another half dozen poundings, I managed to get a foothold and find my way in. I didn't panic, but the thrashing scared me. I came away with a new respect for power of the water. The next time I got in, the surf was smaller and I was much more cautious.

The beach at Hanakapi'ai. 

The rocks at Hanakapi'ai Beach. Woman: "Where have you been?"  Man: "Uhh, out with the boys..."

 A cave at Hanakapi'ai -- as seen from the beach.

Footprints in the cave at Hanakapi'ai.

Inside the cave at Hanakapi'ai.

Back on the trail to Kalalau. At this point, the trail changes. It's noticeably narrower and steeper, with intimidating drops off the edge. On average the trail is probably about 18 inches wide, wider in some places (e.g., 24"), narrower in others (e.g., 12"). We were blessed with good weather for the duration of our trip. I wouldn't want to be on this trail when it was raining. Our next stop was Hanakoa at Mile 6. 

There are some nice campsites at Hanakoa, along with a nice stream that leads up the valley to some nice waterfalls. 

We arrived at Hanakoa by mid-afternoon. We were glad to get our camps setup, relax and soak our feet in the stream.

Our kitchen table at Hanakoa. Despite of our worries, we ate exceptionally well throughout the trip. Thanks to Backpackers Pantry Freeze Dried Food. When they say a packet contains two servings, they mean it. :D We feasted on Lasagna, Kathmandu Curry, Louisiana Red Beans and Rice, Huevos Rancheros, Denver Omelets, Granola and Blueberries, Sicilian Vegetables and Garlic Mashed Potatoes. We also enjoyed Mocha Mousse Pie and Hot Apple Cobbler. It was all good. Moreover, we brought along plenty of trail mix and further feasted on an abundance of wild fruits found along the trail and in the valley. When I got back to civilization, I was surprised to find I actually lost 2 lbs. It must have been the fresh air, because it wasn't for lack of food.

After our first night, we decided to conserve gas for the stove -- we only brought two bottles. So on most nights we cooked our dinner over an open flame, saving the gas for breakfast, lunch, and all important coffee/tea. In the end, we had just enough gas. 

On day 2 we headed out for the second leg of our journey -- 5 more miles to the Kalalau Valley. 

The hike consisted of weaving into lush valleys, then  curving onto and over rocky dry ridges. In total, we traversed at least a dozen ridges and valleys before reaching Kalalau.

There is one spot in particular that's a little sketchy. You traverse the ridge along a rocky  narrow ledge. The path is a good 18 inches wide, but it's rock to your left and air to your right. Below the air on your right is the sea about 200 feet down. On a dry day, it's safe, so long as you don't stumble. You can find a video of Cathie traversing this section of the trail later in this blog.  

The sketchy section is at Mile 7. On this day, the ground was dry, the sky was clear, and the wind was mild. Except for our nervousness, we had no trouble getting around it.

More ridges and valleys to traverse, but from here we got our first glimpse (in the distance) of the mountains that ring the Kalalau Valley. At times the surf was heavy. One night, while camping at Hanakoa, we heard thunder and thought a storm was moving in. The next day, we realized the thunder was actually an occasional enormous wave crashing against the cliffs.

The rest of the hike, beyond the main cliff, was uneventful and relaxing. Before long we began our descent into the valley. 

We were relieved and happy to be arriving -- and a little tired.

Our first view of the beach at Kalalau. We hiked to the end and setup camp, near the waterfall.

The view of the mountains from the beach at Kalalau. 

Looking west from the beach at Kalalau.

Looking east from the beach at Kalalau. The beach is at least a half mile long and depending on the tide about a hundred or so yards wide. It being winter, the place was pretty much empty. There were maybe a dozen or so hikers in the valley at the time. The risk of bad weather and harsh surf in the winter, tends to keep people away. The valley is more populated during the summer, with both hikers and kayakers. Luckily, we had terrific weather.  

A panoramic of the mountains as seen from the beach.

I just couldn't get enough of the view. 

A closer look at our campsite and the nearby waterfall. The waterfall provided us with both drinking water (sterilized with a filter and ultraviolet light pen) and a shower. The cliffs above our campsite were occupied by a family of goats. They were absolutely fearless and went to unimaginable extremes for a tuft of grass. 

Our tent was pitched under a Milo Tree. And yes, we sat on rocks. 

We spent our first full day at Kalalau resting, enjoying the beach and exploring the caves. This is the first cave, just west of the waterfall. You actually have to be a little careful when you enter the cave, as rocks tend to fall of the cliffs thanks to wind and goats!

The second cave is further down the beach to the west. We had to catch the tide right to get there, and even then we had to time the surf and scurry around rocks to avoid getting wet. Naturally, I stumbled one time and ended up getting swamped. 

When the tide is high, big waves washed into the cave, leaving a shallow pool behind.

The cave is pretty deep, going back maybe 150 feet. On our first attempt we were turned away by darkness. On our second attempt, this time equipped with headlamps, we followed the cave to its end. There's all sorts of funky stuff (scientific term) growing in the caves. Minerals? Algae? I don't know. Pretty cool though.

On our second day, we ventured into the valley for a day of exploration.

The valley was once occupied and cultivated by native Hawaiians. As such, it's loaded with natural goodies. Here, Cathie searches a coconut tree for fruit. No luck this time.

A baby banana tree.

A grove of Hau trees makes a natural jungle gym.

The Century plants were so big I felt like an ant walking through some pre-historic garden. 

A grove of Ti.

Fiddle-head ferns.

Walking through a grove of ginger. 

A grove of young bamboo.

A couple of wood roses.

There are flowers everywhere.

... and more flowers.

Life thrives. Here, a Kukui nut sprouts from a hole in a rock.

The valley is home to some giant mango trees. The ripe fruit litters the ground beneath them. Some of it is rotten, but much of it is good. We feasted. 

Liliko'i (aka passion fruit) is also relatively abundant. We pretty much had an unlimited supply of both Mangoes and Liliko'i. Tunji was a Liliko'i fiend, eating them with pretty much every meal. :)

While there were many Guava trees, we had less luck finding fruit. I found and plucked this nice big one for Cathie. OK, we shared it. 

Coffee. Yeah! At Hanakoa, the coffee plants along the trail to the waterfall litter the ground with beans/seeds. We collected a bag full to bring home for roasting.  

Taro -- a staple of in the native Hawaiian diet.

This stone looks like it may have once been used to grind Taro roots into poi.

Large swaths of the valley are terraced into plots of land which once held housing and gardens. Nowadays, it's mostly forest, but a few hidden gardens remain. We came across one that contained, in addition to classic modern vegetables,  taro, sugar cane, bananas, and papaya. Even though no one is *officially* supposed to live in the valley, it's evident that some people do.

We also came across what appeared to be a worm-hole to another dimension. Unfortunately, we couldn't figure out how to get the darn thing to work.

One of the water falls along the stream. Just below the falls is a nice pool for swimming and bathing. We enjoyed the cool, refreshing water. And yes, we were naked.

On our third day in the valley (5th day overall), we pretty much relaxed and enjoyed the beach, ...

... and the surf, ...

... and the sand, ...

... and the scenery, ....

... and each other. 

The sunsets were pretty nice too. Oh, and so were the stars at night. Incredible! The whole experience was peaceful -- like taking a long deep breath. 

On day 6, it was time to go. So we said good-bye and started for home.

Again, we were blessed with good weather.

By now, we felt like seasoned hikers.

We worked our way back in and out of valleys and across the ridges.

It wasn't long before we got back to that one sketchy spot in the trail. Luckily, we had terrific weather.

Here, Cathie traverses the sketchy section of the trail on our hike home.

That done, we continued with relative ease to Hanakoa. 

We arrived at Hanakoa a little after noon. That gave us plenty of time to explore the valley a little. We started up the trail to the waterfall, but soon became lost. In the end we bush-wacked up the stream, until we came across this water fall and a series of others. 

We continued to climb, trying to reach the large waterfall that we knew was above us. But alas, we eventually had to turn back. The slope became too steep and the Kukui nuts too thick and loose on the ground. For each step up, we'd easily slide half way back. On our way down, we found the proper trail. So at least, next time, we'll know where to go. 

On day 7 we started the last leg of our trip, a 6 mile hike back to Ke'e Beach. 

Along the way, we enjoyed the view and all the vegetation. Here is a Hala Tree with unusually long roots.

The stalks of the Century plant look like asparagus. I thought I was hiking in the land of the Jolly Green Giant!

There were also plenty of Milo trees along the way.

And Naupaka, both mountain and beach.

It wasn't long before we made it out. Tunji and I hung out at the beach, while Lori and Cathie hitched a ride to the Princeville airport to pick up our rental car. It was a pretty good deal. :)

As an added bonus, we visited Mele (a friend of Lori's) and her beautiful family that day. Thanks to Mele and her family for feeding us, putting us up, and carting us around before our trip. On this day, we took time out to explore a sea cave near her house. 

Much to our delight, we discovered a sea turtle resting in the cave. We didn't bother her (him?) too much. She (he) slept, while we collected shells. It was a nice way to finish off a terrific day.